This can be done in various different ways depending on the needs of the shot. Once my track is solid – the next challenge is to mask out the window where the object in the foreground crosses. Once all the manual work is done – I’ll go back and track any additional sections before or after it that still need tracking – and adjust and keyframe if needed. With that in mind, I’ll make the start and end keyframes first – then gradually work inwards towards the middle of the manual tracked section. But I don’t just jump right in and start making keyframes! I think the best practice is to create the least amount of keyframes necessary to get the desired motion. With that done – it’s time to get keyframing. Next, I’ll track the longest “easy to track” section. This plan consists of what sections I think will work with automatic tracking, and what sections won’t. When I approach a shot like this – the first thing I do is look at the entire shot and come up with a plan. My Methodology – Planning And Working From The Outside In Second – you need to mask out the window while it is obscured so your color adjustment doesn’t affect something it shouldn’t. Shots like this have two main problems to solve:įirst, you need to get a good track on the background object, before, during, and after it is obscured. Tracking a window that is obscured by a foreground object or person can be a frustrating challenge. No matter what – you will be in for some manual keyframing. As great as most modern tracking software is – there simply is no way to deal with it automatically. We’ve all run into that one shot – where you want to track a power window, but the object or person you are trying to track has someone just walk right in front of it. Tutorials / Better Window Tracking: Combining Tracking With Manual Keyframes Dealing With Problem Tracks
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